Yutmaru Sar

Height: 7,283 meters (23,895 feet)

Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram

Location: Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan

Introduction

Yutmaru Sar is a towering yet little-known mountain in the Hispar Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,283 meters, it stands just northeast of the massive Yukshin Gardan Sar and offers stunning alpine scenery and considerable mountaineering challenges.

Geographical Context

Yutmaru Sar lies near the Hispar Glacier and the Shimshal Valley, surrounded by dramatic ridges and high-altitude passes. The area remains relatively unexplored due to difficult access, making it attractive to climbers seeking solitude and unspoiled nature.

Climbing History

The first known ascent of Yutmaru Sar was made in 1980 by a Japanese expedition. Due to its proximity to other major peaks and logistical challenges, it has rarely been climbed. There are no commercial expeditions regularly operating on this mountain.

Climbing Routes

The most accessible route begins from the Hispar Glacier side, involving crevassed glacier travel and steep snow and ice climbing. It requires full expedition-style logistics with base camp and multiple high camps.

How to Reach

The mountain can be approached from the Shimshal or Hispar valleys. Both require multi-day treks. The nearest road access is via Gilgit–Skardu road, and porters are needed for gear transport beyond the last village.

Nearby Peaks

• Yukshin Gardan Sar (7,530 m)
• Kanjut Sar (7,760 m)
• Trivor (7,728 m)
• Disteghil Sar (7,885 m)

Yutmaru Sar. This peak lies west of Kanjut Sar north of the Hispar Glacier. Our party consisted of Yu Watanabe, Shoji Ebara, Masahiro Motegi, Dr. Ryoko Kato and me as leader. Having approached from Nagar, we established Base Camp on the Yutmaru Glacier at 15,250 feet on June 19. We all climbed up the North Yutmaru Glacier to the site of Camp I at 16,900 feet at the foot of the mountain on the 21st. On the way back, Ebara fell into a crevasse and broke a rib. This and bad weather delayed activity. On July 3 we established Camp I. Camp II was at 18,875 feet. On July 5, despite bad weather, we got to the col on the west ridge and placed Camp III at 20,175 feet. On July 17 we crossed the great snowfield and placed Camp IV at 21,325 feet below the north ridge. The first summit attempt on the 18th failed in a snowstorm. It cleared on the 21st and we set out from Camp III for the summit, in spite of having little food. We bivouacked at 22,300 feet. On July 22, I was buried by a snow slide but was uninjured. In the afternoon Watanabe, Motegi and I got to the summit (7330 meters, 23,951 feet).

Climbing Season

The best time to attempt Yutmaru Sar is from late June to early September when the weather is relatively stable. However, even during this period, snowstorms and high winds can pose serious risks.

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